Review: Tantrum Doughnuts

In recent years, people have just gone mad for doughnuts, with artisan doughnut shops popping up in an attempt to defeat the long-reigning Krispy Kreme.  It started with Nics NYC Deli, who sell a wonderful array of wacky doughnut flavours alongside their range of sandwiches and hotdogs, then bakeries like Seb & Mili appeared, now we have Tantrum Doughnuts, who recently moved to their larger premises at 27 Old Dumbarton Road – simply to keep up with the sheer demand for their hand-made doughnuts!

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The shop boasts hand-made doughnuts in a range of flavours, with two different and distinct styles – yeast-raised brioche, and “old-fashioned” doughnuts made with ingredients like buttermilk and sour cream, for a cakeier, crumbly texture.  The flavours range from classics such as jam-filled or chocolate and hazelnut, to more unusual ones like Crème Brulee and Yuzu Meringue with Green Tea Sugar, and every doughnut is made using high quality, fresh ingredients.

The new premises have been beautifully designed and decorated, with that quirky, Tantrum Doughnut style and slick monochrome tiling.  The previous space a few doors down provided very little space in terms of seating, whereas now there is an area at the back of the shop for sitting in and enjoying your doughnut with a cup of coffee.  The shop is also dog friendly, so if like me, you have a furry friend, feel free to bring them along!

As is standard for a lazy Sunday afternoon, the queue was almost out the door when I arrived, but with the larger space – meaning more doughnuts – the queue moved swiftly.  I ordered a box of six doughnuts, as well as a chocolate & marshmallow milkshake, coming to around £15, which I have to admit did shock me for a minute.  My doughnuts were given to me in a brown card box and I headed over to the seating area to wait for my milkshake.

Within a few minutes, my incredible looking milkshake was placed in front of me, and for a moment I just sat there taking in the sheer size of the beautifully scorched, hand-made marshmallow that sat on top of it.  The milkshake itself was delicious – so rich and creamy, with a real, punchy, chocolate flavour.  Not that artificial chocolate flavour that milkshakes often have, but a strong and sumptuous chocolatey goodness.  The giant marshmallow on top had a lovely torched, smokey flavour to balance the incredible sweetness, and a delightfully fluffy texture.  By far the best milkshake I’ve ever had.

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Doughnut wise, I went for two crème brulee, two jam filled, a chocolate hazelnut and a yuzu meringue – I had to share them with Sam, so my choices were somewhat influenced by his preferences as well as my own!  My first pick was the crème brulee, by far my favourite, hence why I got two!  The crème patisserie filling is so thick, creamy and full of that natural vanilla flavour, and the scorched top adds crunch and texture.  The same praise can be given to the chocolate & hazelnut, as it too has an incredible, rich filling, and is coated in delicious cinnamon sugar.  I wasn’t, however, a huge fan of the Yuzu meringue, which I bought for Sam more than myself, as I don’t like green tea and that flavour permeated more than I expected, although Sam found the filling perfect!

The problem for both Sam and myself, and we may be on our own here, but the actual doughnut dough itself we found to be a tad on the dry side – please don’t chase me with pitch forks for saying so!  I think this stems from the size of the doughnuts to the ratio of filling.  The doughnuts are a really generous size; big, fat and plump, with the filling added at the top of the doughnut, meaning right at the centre is a pool of deliciousness, but there seemed to be an excess of dough around it.  I must admit that I’ve yet to try one of the old fashioned flavours, so I can’t pass judgement on them.

That’s certainly not to say I don’t enjoy the doughnuts – I do, but more so for their delicious fillings made with fresh ingredients without any additives or preservatives, which certainly make for a superior flavour!  I just wish there was more of that filling to compensate for the generous doughnut sizes.  In my opinion, go for the doughnuts, stay for the milkshakes.

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